Farm Pro 2425 Tach
farmpro_newb
Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 17 Java, Va |
2011-07-28 179584
Hi again, I bought parts to get my non working gauges on my 2425 working. The starter switch was bad (used a screwdriver as a key) so I got a new one. Gas gauge and oil pressure gauges both were not working either. I changed all the above as well as the sender unit for the oil gauge. The Tach and temp gauge were fine before but afterwards no Tach. It has power and shows 5 RPM when cranking but once the tractor is running and the key in the normal position the tach doesn't show the running RPMs. Any ideas? I cannot see that anything I did for repairs would make the tach act up the way it is..........
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Farm Pro 2425 Tach
greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky Pics |
2011-07-28 179586
There's a chance you could have pinched a tach wire when working on the other gauges. But most problems are related to the sending unit. It only looks like one wire coming out of it, but there's actually two there. Make sure there's no damage where they go into the sending unit. If ok, remove the sender and inspect the tip for damage. If ok, screw back until you feel it make contact with the flywheel. Then back it off 1/2 to 3/4 turn, then lock it back down.
//greg// ....
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Farm Pro 2425 Tach
farmpro_newb
Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 17 Java, Va |
2011-07-29 179590
Greg,took out the tach sender unit, it had metal shavings stuck to it. Cleaned it and put it back in, seemed like it went in a turn or so further than originally. backed it back out 3/4 a turn, tried it still no go. Reremoved it upon reinspection there is now a gouge across the face and a small wire piece sticking out from the outer ring piece. Don't think the gouge was there before reinsertion. I might have put it back in too far or didn't back it back out far enough when reinstalling it. At any rate it looks shat now for sure. Would metal shavings sticking to the magnetic piece have caused this to fail? Can they be tested while removed? ....
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Farm Pro 2425 Tach
greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky Pics |
2011-07-29 179591
Quote:
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Unless there's some kind of undesired projection on your ring gear (the teeth around the flywheel), 3/4 turn should be more than enough clearance. In some cases too much, which is why I suggested 1/2 to 3/4
//greg// ....
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Farm Pro 2425 Tach
farmpro_newb
Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 17 Java, Va |
2011-08-01 179626
OK, Firstly thanks to all the gang here. Greg had good advice and as usual Affordable Tractor, GREAT Service. Got the tach sender unit today. The magnet on it felt stronger than the original. I decided to err on the side of caution this time and screwed the sender till it met the flywheel then backed it out 2 full turns. (Knowing I could always screw it in further should it not work). I wanted to guarantee I had no contact with the flywheel once the tractor was running. Plugged it in started the tractor and the Tach seems to be working like a charm!! Must be a strong magnet huh? Just a very weird coincidence to have my tach sender unit fail at the same time I had replaced the oil pressure gauge, fuel gauge, and starter switch. (All with the positive post of my battery disconnected. The old fuel gauge never registered a reading and with the new one it pegs to full all the time, though sometimes while traveling and the tractor moving around the fuel gauge seemingly will go to the true fuel level but not stay there. I am supposing pulling the fuel sender unit would involve pulling the dash and hood? I just don't feel quite up to doing that alone, again. Seems to me that it is a 2 person job.
But really great results nonetheless thanks to all the help here. Any comments regarding the fuel gauge or my Tach experience would be most welcome! Thanks...... Jim ....
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Farm Pro 2425 Tach
richwaugh
Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 96 |
2011-08-02 179629
The tach sender is not a coincidence - it is because all vehicles have feelings and you worked on all the others and neglected it so its feelings got hurt and it died. :-)
The fuel sender probably has a bad ground or may have gotten jostled enough to need adjusting. You *can* get it out of the tank without removing the cowling; you'll need to remove the instrument cluster so you can reach through the hole to access the top of the fuel tank. You can do it from the engine side but you need arms like an orangutan. When/if you pul the sender out, be very careful with it. It is comprised of a sliding potentiometer that is wound wit wire finer than the hair of the proverbial Scandinavian princess. Just look a tit wrong at it can break. Mine broke spontaneously and I managed to solder it back and get it working but it was pretty fussy work - like doing a circumcision on a mosquito. :-) ....
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